Godari: A tale of Rabaris Community

Every quilt tells a story of strength of traditions. It shows creativity, design, pattern and love for color, tradition and cultural roots of a person (woman) who create them.

In Gujarat (Kutch) quilts in a local regional language called as “Godari”. It is a combination of patchwork, applique & embroidery. The motif and design of quilts has been passed from mother to daughter and woman to woman. It is used as blanket or bedspreads. And it is also given to a girl who is getting married as dowry by parents.

Rabaris are community work on quilts (Godari) majorly spread in of Kutch (Gujarat). They are one of the most interesting ethnic community. Tradition traces their origins to the Himalayas, as the creation of Shiva and Parvati. The community cherishes its customs, mythology, history and ancestral heritage, which are intimately entwined with their traditional occupation of animal keeping. The story of their arrival in Kutch is a story of momentous migration from the Himalayas to Punjab, Haryana, Mathura, Rajasthan and, finally, into Kutch via Pakistan. They are known by different names in different states, like Rabari in Gujarat, Raika in Rajasthan, Pal in Punjab. The Rabaris are further divided into subgroups based on geographical location, which are known as pagans. Three major sub-groups residing in Kutch are the Dhebarias, Vagadias and Kachhis.

They are easily identified by their womenfolk, who are usually with long black head scrapes, heavy brass earrings which hang low, stretching the earlobe. They have magical tattoo symbols on their necks, breasts and arms. It is an important element of their adornment and identification, which symbolises as there are regardless of age. A good part of the exposed area of their body which is not concealed from the gaze of the other is decorated with tattoos. These tattoos represent, in a stylized from temples, attars, symbols of the gods. Beside those which are purely aesthetic, they are also believed to have proprietary functions, offering protection from strangers. Rabari always wears black attire. There is really an interesting myth about wearing it. Many years ago, Jaisalmer was the main centre for Rabaris. Once, a Muslim King fell in love with a young Rabari girl. The community refused his proposal. The king got angry and threatened to kill all of them. Out of fear they migrated from there overnight with the help of one Muslim man, that man was killed by the king while assisting the Rabaris for their escape. So it is said that Rabari women wore black from then to mourn his death. It is also said that the loyalty of this man gives insight to the ease of interaction between the Hindu Rabaris and Muslims found in Kutch. Another interesting aspect of Rabari women is their earrings. As they have migrated from Rajasthan, women, their describe a mushroom as snake umbrella, because it comes out after the rains and snakes have the habit of hiding under its hood. These nagali earring is supposed to stand for the double shape of the mushroom. And spiral, spring like shape can be considered as the form most closely related to snake as they may have seen the local earrings there, or rather transferred their main designs to the village people.

The design of Rabari’s quilt is very intricate and rich. Every afternoon time is for embroidery/quilting for all Rabaris. The color they use for making a quilt is according to the color combination as they are made from worn clothes. They also use glass mirrors in various shapes: round, lozenge, rectangular, square, triangular, and beak shaped. The stitches are square chain interlaced with buttonhole for mirror work, single chain, knot, Romanian, blanket interlaced with herringbone, running, and double running. They do different types of embroidery on quilts. The main purpose of doing embroidery is to fill the blank space between the motifs are on the motifs, so that it looks denser. It’s an interesting collaboration of style, design, and colors. This artistic piece of clothing gives out a completely different experience to the people. In fact, the value of their work has gone up in the recent times with people becoming traditionally bound. This work has been passed over generations and enjoys its own stature. Hence, quilting is a vital, living and evolving expression of the crafted textile tradition for Rabaris. It is an expression of creativity, aesthetics and identity as far as the tribe’s collective memory goes.